Begin by removing all items that will get in your way while painting. Do not do this as you go, for it will only take longer. These items are things such as patio furniture, potted plants, mailboxes, umbrellas, etc.
Use paper and tape to mask all items not easily removed; such as porch lights, screen doors, doorknobs and any other items that require protection from paint.

Water blast the building using the appropriate pressure, this step in the process will help identify areas where paint adhesion has been compromised. Removal of dirt and dust is essential to quality adhesion. Aged wood has to be treated with some caution. Injecting high pressure water into wood that has naturally dried out over the years is not always recommended. This step will result in some minimal water spotting on windows. If your painting contractor is to be responsible for this spotting, let him know while in the preliminary stages of coordinating the job.

Scraping of peeling paint is the next step. As the building dries out, the edges of remaining paint will curl up. These areas and all others are scraped until the paint stops coming off.
Priming raw wood and metal is essential to quality. At JFP we prime raw areas before patching and after patching to encapsulate the patching compound in primer. Moisture can penetrate a patching compound from behind causing it to swell and break out.

Patching compounds such as caulking, elastomeric patching, fixall, and putty, are applied to certain areas on wood to fill voids and stop water penetration. We use these products very conservatively. Patching compounds are not as good as the original surface and generally are the first areas to fail. Spackle is never used outside. Stucco is always patched with specially formulated stucco patching material and best efforts to match the adjacent texture are always taken.

Re-priming of dried patches is to seal the porous surface of the patching compound. This assures that the paint being applied will create a high mil thickness and not become absorbed by the porous compound leaving the building with inadequate protection.

Spray painting of appropriate areas comes next. When applied appropriately, maximum production and maximum build-up of the new paint film occurs. If the applicator always hits his surface perpendicularly and with the correct pressure, over spray can usually be eliminated.

Brush and roller are used to apply paint to all trim. Wrought iron, front doors, window trim, and fascia boards are always rolled. The roller not only applies paint to the surface, but actually pushes the paint into pores of that surface, resulting in better adhesion. In certain instances we even back roll stucco for the same effect. Unlike spraying, you get just so much paint between the surface and the roller.

Re-checking all surfaces for touch-up comes after production has been completed. Small areas not painted are addressed at this time such as, under sliding glass doors or perhaps around items that could not be removed.
We clean-up all rubbish and debris from work area and remove all rags, buckets, card board shields, tools, and ladders. We also replace all items moved way from the building in the first step.

Neatly, with proper product identification, we prepare touch-up paints. When putting together the touch-up paints, we try to present them in their original, well-labeled cans; organization is crucial for successful touch-up at later dates.A re-walk job is done in its entirety to assure 100% completion. After this we are almost finished.

Acceptance and approval by customer is the final step. Total customer satisfaction is our top priority.